![]() Plugging the components in like that looks like a quick, tidy and clever solution, but I worry that their legs will break off after repeated removal/re-insertion. I bet using standard pin headers and Dupont sockets would raise the height quite a bit in comparison (there might still be enough room though -I'll have to do a little experimenting). I like the low-profile solution as I'm not sure how much available space there is until components butt into the next voice card. Very cool! Thanks for the photos which cleared things up. It's funny how the creative juices appear when you start discussing things The external PCB with the components and switches needed sounds elegant, but I'd have to find a place to mount it (so it won't just hang loosely around) and perhaps the long wires would cause noise problems etc. But I'm leaning towards bulding dedicated "configuration sets" with connectors that just plug into wherever they're needed, each set neatly organized in their own resealable plastic bag. skipping a pin in some configurations) I could use two 1-pin Dupont connectors with a short wire soldered between the two. "J7" or "R15" etc.) of course with a small dot of paint on the first pin on the PCB jumper and the connector to get the key pin right. And that way I could build up a complete "configuration sets" for a particular voice card setup, marking each connector with where they are to be used (i.e. Nusa: I'm not sure if I've understood you correctly, but perhaps (after soldering the pin header rows in place provided the spacing allows for that) I could use Dupont connector for both the components (soldered at the appropriate distance, using a suitable number of pins for that spacing) and the "skip some pins" jumpers. On second thought: can pin headers be pushed firmly into those? In that case I could solder the resistor across the appropriate pin spacing and simply plug it in when needed. ![]() David Hess: I looked up collett sockets and came across these -is that what you're referring to? So a resistor for example can have its leads/wire pins pushed into those pins and stay there? But I imagine it would be easy to bend/break the resistor leads as well. To use this lever just push it upwards.Thanks for both suggestions! I'm not sure I understand though. ![]() The little arm nestled inside the handles allows you to release the ratchet mechanism of the crimpers and abandon a crimp without having to complete the crimping motion all the way through - ideal for when you realise the crimp is not going as planned and need to reseat something before crimping again. The direction for tightening or loosening the bite is usually marked on the gear with '+' or '-' sign and an arrow. I did not need to adjust mine, but if you feel your crimpers are crimping too tight or not tight enough then you can remove the screw, rotate the geared cog and then reseat the screw again. You will also find a small screw and geared wheel for making adjustments to the strength of the crimp. The jaws of the crimper feature several different sized recesses for the different size of Dupont connectors available. If you are using a different pair the following steps should be much the same. I'm using the pocket money friendly SN-2 in this guide. There are many different style of crimpers available from a budget friendly prices of around $10 all the way up to thousands of dollars.
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